Modeling a Radiator Heater

I'd still try to stick with modifiers as long as you can, but set them up in a way so removing doubles and manual fixing should not be necessary at all. Here's the blend with a modified (beware, joke) radiator: This is the preliminary result:I didn't bother yet to put the pipework in, but to give you my direction, I'd use the skin modifier for the pipes in a separate mesh, or alternatively an extruded curve for that. For the connection nut, the bolt factory addon comes in handy, it ships with Blender.

What I like so much about the modifier system is, that basically you only need this:Notice in the modifier stack, that I use end caps a lot. This allows to exchange the start and end mesh of the array with a different one. So all I did, was to duplicate the inner mesh that makes the ribs, and slightly modify them. You can see that procedure when you look at the layers 12 and 13 in the blend. Make sure the merge option is set in the array, with a feasible threshold. That way, the mesh is perfectly connected everywhere (hopefully, as it is quite late here now.

...).

I have been attempting to model a radiator heater.

Now, my radiator in real life is made out of five vertical pipes with one cross beam arrayed seventeen times along a bottom pipe that carries the hot water through a system of pipes originating and ending at the boiler in the basement. Here are some pics of it up close:

And my recreation of it in my most recent render:

What I did to create my Blender radiator was fairly elementary. I took a cube, added some loop cuts in both directions, and added a Wireframe modifier. This created a skeleton, but not the interior.

While I am aware that I could use the Array modifier here to repeat a wireframed section over and over again, I am wondering if there is a less choppy solution, as the ends would still have to be separate, and then I'd have to combine and remove doubles and blah-di-blah. What I would like is a short and quick way to produce a more photorealistic radiator. It does not need to be high-poly, infact low-poly would be better, because the radiator is not the focus of the image.

Thoughts?

If it wouldn't be too much trouble, a reiteration of the following .blend file with a new radiator in your answer would be great! Note that I could not pack any Image Textures, as the .blend would have been too big for Blend Exchange.

·OTHER ANSWER:

I have been attempting to model a radiator heater.

Now, my radiator in real life is made out of five vertical pipes with one cross beam arrayed seventeen times along a bottom pipe that carries the hot water through a system of pipes originating and ending at the boiler in the basement. Here are some pics of it up close:

And my recreation of it in my most recent render:

What I did to create my Blender radiator was fairly elementary. I took a cube, added some loop cuts in both directions, and added a Wireframe modifier. This created a skeleton, but not the interior.

While I am aware that I could use the Array modifier here to repeat a wireframed section over and over again, I am wondering if there is a less choppy solution, as the ends would still have to be separate, and then I'd have to combine and remove doubles and blah-di-blah. What I would like is a short and quick way to produce a more photorealistic radiator. It does not need to be high-poly, infact low-poly would be better, because the radiator is not the focus of the image.

Thoughts?

If it wouldn't be too much trouble, a reiteration of the following .blend file with a new radiator in your answer would be great! Note that I could not pack any Image Textures, as the .blend would have been too big for Blend Exchange.

Modeling a Radiator Heater 1

get in touch with us
Artigos recomendados
Radiator
RadiatorIf you are removing the radiator you must remove the transmission cooling lines but not the AC lines.— — — — — —2000 Neon overheating after putting new (used) radiator in?Listen to what your saying! The top radiator hose would not be hot if the thermostat was stuck shut. Have you wrapped you hand around the lower radiator hose yet? If the radiator was cooling properly, the lower hose should be much cooler than the upper hose. If the lower hose is hot also, one of two things are going on: #1. The electric radiator cooling fan is not running when the dash temperature reaches 212 degrees. #2. Your used radiator core cross cooling tubes are plugged and it belongs back at the junk yard you bought it from— — — — — —My car will not keep fluid in the radiator.?How does the car not starting has anything to do with the fluid in the radiator? Check your battery state of charge— — — — — —Liquid droplet radiatorThe liquid droplet radiator (LDR) or previously termed liquid droplet stream radiator is a proposed lightweight radiator for the dissipation of waste heat generated by power plants, propulsion or spacecraft systems in space— — — — — —The radiator fans not coming on?thermal relay switch, blown fuse, bad fan or cut wiring. try checking the fuse and inspecting the wires leading to it. if those check out good then hot wire the fan directly to the fan, if it works then you have a bad relay.— — — — — —Will flushing my radiator help?yes if the water has rust, its time to flush, there are likely rust deposits on the bottom of the water jackets in the block, and rust will eventually plug up the radiator. I buy a back flush kit from the store, and a couple of gallons of antifreeze (make sure it has water pump lube in the antifreeze) drain as much of the old antifreeze out as possible and put it in a container for recycling later. Antifreeze for some reason is attractive to pets, so make sure no cats or dogs get into it, it smells sweet, they drink even a little and they die a crummy death of kidney failure. This is a good time to inspect the upper and lower radiator hoses, and look over the heater hoses carefully anything that looks old or cracked, or bulged like a balloon in one spot, replace. lubricate the inside of any hoses you replace with spit it will slide on easier. after it runs clear turn off the vehicle and the garden hose. Let it all drain out. then close the petcock to the radiator, put the cap on the T and fill the radiator with coolant. Make sure to let the vehicle warm up, good, rev the engine a few times make sure no air bubbles are trapped in the block. I usually put a new radiator cap on at this time, and take a short trip around the block accelerate a few times to get the water pump spinning then park, make sure the overflow is up to the line and let the vehicle cool down. If any air is in the system, it should draw more coolant from the overflow as it cools down for a few hours. take your time, and do it right. good luck.— — — — — —flush the radiator or replace it?I would flush again and put coolant back in not water, i would also do a block flush that way you make sure your flushing every thing. open your radiator pull your lower hose from the radiator and just let a garden hose run in where the cap goes. you definitely have a blockage or possibly have the wrong thermostat or radiator cap.— — — — — —What can be done to make a room radiator more efficient?A radiator is 100% efficient. All the heat coming out of it goes into the air adjacent to it.What you can and should do, is improve the insulation of the wall behind the radiator to the greatest possible extent, so as much of the heat in that air goes into the room rather than into a cold wall. Insulating the whole house is best, but if it's a solid wall about which nothing can be done, you can remove the radiator and install as much insulation behind the radiator as you can afford space for. You can get aluminized plastic foam for this task, which does not require moving the radiator at all. Or you can use an inch of rigid insulation panel, if the radiator can be moved forwards an inch.Long-term, if you can't improve the insulation of the building, you should be making plans to replace your boiler with a heat-pump. However, a heat pump is most efficient if it delivers just slightly warm water. That in turn, demands that all your radiators be changed. One option is simply much larger ones - if you have the space. Another is 'active" radiators (heat-exchangers) containing a fan to blow air through them. Beware any salesman who tries to sell you a heat pump without new radiators and detailed calculation thereof for each room. He's a rip-off merchant. It'll cost you more to run that you were led to believe, and your house will be inadequately warmed on the coldest days. What can be done to make a room radiator more efficient?
Car Brake Pads Factory Take You Understand - Brake Fluid ReplacementBrake Pads Manufacturer
Bubbles Coming Out of Car Radiator?
IF My Car Radiator Needs Water Can I Put It In?
My Car Overheats and My Car Heat Blows Out Cold Air.?
1999 Mercury Mountaineer Radiator?
Are the Radiator Fan and the Water Pump One in the Same?
FCC, ROHS and CE Certification and Compliance Closed
GP Speedmaster's New Sub-brand "100% Biba" Fully Launches New Products
Reference Design of Power Supply and Serializer for Automobile Camera Module
related searches
Car Brake Pads Factory Take You Understand - Brake Fluid ReplacementBrake Pads Manufacturer
My Car Overheats and My Car Heat Blows Out Cold Air.?
1999 Mercury Mountaineer Radiator?
Are the Radiator Fan and the Water Pump One in the Same?
FCC, ROHS and CE Certification and Compliance Closed
Radiator
Bubbles Coming Out of Car Radiator?
IF My Car Radiator Needs Water Can I Put It In?
GP Speedmaster's New Sub-brand "100% Biba" Fully Launches New Products
Contact us
  • Cel : +86 158-2024-2923
  • Tel(Fax) : +86 020-29835956
  • E-mail : info@torylight.com
    Facebook : Torylight sandy
  • Twitter : @torylight sandy

  • Add : No.1, XinHe Industrial Park, Huadu
  • District, Guangzhou, CHINA
Whatsapp :
+86 158-2024-2923
        
Copyright © 2021 Guangzhou Tory Light Co., Ltd. | Sitemap